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If cracks or other abnormalities are found in the fan guard, replace the fan guard. Console Box Components in Console Box Combination Meter Major Electrical Components Starter Switch with Anti-restart Lock Lighting Switch Fuse Box Spare Terminals Battery Maintenance The indicator lights will go OFF when the engine starts.

Alternator relay Engine cover harness System harness to Directional lever to Turn signal switch to Ignition coil. Start by: Turn off the starter switch, and disconnect the negative grounding cable from the battery. Removal sequence 1. Disconnect the electrical wires at connectors 1. In the gasoline models, disconnect the choke cable on the engine side. Disconnect the electrical wires at connectors, and remove directional lever 2.

Remove screws on cover 3 using a flat-tip screwdriver, and remove the cover. Remove screws on cover U-RE 4, and remove the cover. Remove screws on cover U-FR 5, and remove the cover. Remove bolts on console box assembly 6, and remove the console box assembly.

Installation To install, follow the reverse of removal sequence. Disassembly 1. Remove screws 1 two securing the cover. Use a flat-tip screwdriver — 2. Remove screws 2 six and separate the front and rear panels. Remove screws 3 four securing the instrument panel. NOTE To replace the instrument panel bulbs, remove screws 2 and 3. Sequence 1 Instrument panel 2 Dial 3 Engine coolant temperature gauge 4 Service hour meter 5 Fuel gauge.

Bulb replacement For bulb replacement, remove the socket from the printed circuit by turning it counterclockwise. The gasoline and diesel models use the. Circuit Backup lights manual transmission models, stop lights Instrument panel light, turn signals, backup lights powershift transmission models Spare terminal, engine thermo switch Tail lights, clearance lights, working lights option Head lights Spare fuse Horn Spare fuse Spare fuse.

Spare Terminals The spare terminal cord extends from the fuse box in the console box. Another spare terminal is located on the chassisside main harness. The spare power supply terminal cord measuring approximately 50 mm 2 in. This terminal is secured to the main harness with red vinyl tape. Cord color: Lg light green Removing the console box rear panel will expose this spare terminal which is fastened to the harness protector with vinyl tape.

Spare terminal Batteries 1. Electrolyte specific gravity S. Battery is half charged. Recharge the battery. Make sure there is neither faulty component, short-circuited cord nor corroded connection in the system. If difference in S. A cell with a low S. Some electrolyte has been lost. Too much electrolyte, or water in electrolyte, too. Recharge until voltage and S. During recharging, adjust the S. To check the battery for charging, take hydrometer readings on its electrolyte: the battery may be deemed to be fully charged if the readings are between 1.

The tendency of the charging system can be told from the way the electrolyte level goes down to expose cell plates. If refilling with distilled water is necessary every month or so, the system is tending to over-charge the battery. If refilling is not required for over 3 months, it is likely that the system is inadequately charging. When disconnecting them from the battery, begin with the cable for the negative – terminal.

CAUTION Be sure to turn off the starter switch and lighting switch before disconnecting or connecting the battery cables to prevent the IC regulator from suffering damage. Possible causes a Dead or weak battery b Short or open in circuit c Poor continuity in starter switch d Starter and starter relay defective e Forward-reverse lever not in neutral position. Turning off starter a Open or short in circuit switch will not stop b Engine stop solenoid defective engine c Control timer defective.

Remedies Recharge or replace. Repair or replace. Move the lever to neutral position. Replacer readjust. Will indicate higher a Ground between gauge and gauge unit grounded temperature than is b Gauge internally defective actual. Possible causes a Dead or weak battery b Fuses blown out c Open or short in circuit d Poor ground e Bulbs burnt out. Check and replace. Clean ground spot and remake connection. Remedies Readjust. Replace brushes if worn. Clean holder and polish slip rings.

Refill and check specific gravity. Clean and retighten. Replace and repair. Removal and Installation Removal and Installation Engine and Transmission Removal The engine can be removed alone but the transmission has to be removed together with the engine.

These pages are devoted to the explanation of removal of the transmission and engine held together as a unit. Suggestions 1. When removing. Battery 2, be sure to disconnect the cable from the negative – terminal of the battery 2 first. Remove front cover 7 together with the accelerator pedal. For this removal, disconnect the pedal from the link rod.

Disconnect exhaust pipe 9 at the engine side. Before disconnecting fuel hose 10, close the fuel shutoff valve. Suggestion To remove inching cable 12, pull out pins and loosen lock nuts at the transmission and inching pedal sides of the cable. Suggestion Disconnect the harness from the engine and transmission at the sockets or terminals.

Tie the disconnected harnesses to the main harness to prevent them from damage. Start by: 1. Remove the coolant drain plug of the engine and drain coolant. The drain plug location differs from one model of the engine to another. Loosen the cock at the bottom of the radiator and drain coolant. Disconnect cooler hose 18 at the transmission side, put it on the right side of the frame.

Automatic transmission fluid will flow out from the cooler when cooler hose 25 is disconnected. Catch the fluid in a container after disconnecting the hose. Sequence 28 Bolts for transmission and engine supports Start by: Lift the engine and transmission assembly by a hoist.

When removing bolts 28, lift the engine and transmission assembly just enough to free mount cushion. On the engine side, remove bolts 28 from the engine support.

When removing the engine and transmission assembly, lift it off while moving it backward. Before lifting the assembly, know the location of the center of gravity of the assembly.

NOTE 1 Drain transmission oil with the assembly lifted. When installing the engine and transmission assembly, carefully lower it while aligning the cushion mounting bolts with their holes on the transmission side. On the engine side, align engine support mounting bolts 28 with their holes in the frame-side engine mounts. After connecting the cable between the inching pedal and transmission, make sure that the plunger projection or readjust if necessary. Connect the accelerator pedal to the throttle cable, and make sure that the injection pump lever is in the full throttle position when the accelerator pedal is depressed all the way diesel models.

On the gasoline models, connect the accelerator pedal to the throttle cable, and make sure that the throttle lever is in the full throttle position when the accelerator pedal is depressed all the way. After connecting the brake pipes, bleed air out of the fluid lines. When installing the exhaust pipe to the engine, use a new gasket. Connect the battery cable to the negative – terminal of the battery lastly after making sure that all the harnesses and cables have been connected properly.

Refill the engine with oil and coolant and the transmission with oil, and check for leaks. Prime the fuel system. After completing the inspection, start the engine, and check it. Move the mast and steering for a while, and check the oil level in the hydraulic tank. Also, check the engine oil level, coolant level and transmission oil level. Transmission Assembly Pump Assembly Control Valve Inspection and Adjustment Testing Hydraulic Pressure Adjusting Inching Pedal Testing Clutch Valve Testing Stall Speed The transmission, integrally coupled to the torque converter, provides a choice of one forward ratio and one reverse ratio.

It has built-in multi-disc clutches, which are hydraulically actuated to control the flow of drive from the converter. The control lever — shift lever — is for operating a hydraulic control valve. The transmission parts, except for torque converter, clutch valve, the output flange and universal joints, are common to all models.

The transmission housing and the torque converter housing can be separated from each other. The pump, turbine and stator can be removed as one assembled unit from the starter shaft and from the input shaft.

The torque converter is of one-piece construction fabricated by welding and is meant to be replaced as one assembled unit. Oil pump Actual capacity : 36 liters cu. Removal and Installation face of the housing and the mating face of flexible plate is 50 to 52 mm 1. The clearance between the flywheel and flexible plate should be 1 to 5 mm 0. If this clearance is zero, it is an indication that the torque converter is improperly coupled to the engine; recouple the converter to the engine properly.

Removal 1 Remove the engine and transmission as an assembly from the truck. Drain oil from the transmission housing 2 Unscrew the bolts securing the flexible plate through the access hole in the torque converter housing.

Installation 1 Couple the torque converter and transmission to the engine. To do this, place the torque converter in the transmission housing so that the distance between the end NOTE 1 Remove the pump as an assembly including 9 and Remove two mount brackets from the transmission housing. Remove the brackets inching and springs. Removing torque converter assembly Remove the torque converter assembly complete with the flexible plate.

Prepare a container to catch the oil that flows out of the converter. Be sure to tighten the bolts equally, or the threads will suffer damage. Special tool needed Bolt. Removing transmission housing bolts After removing the pump assembly, unscrew two transmission housing bolts F from the torque converter housing side. Removing transmission housing Lay the transmission and torque converter assembly with transmission housing down.

Unscrew the transmission housing bolts. Hang the transmission housing to a hoist, tap the transmission and clutch housing flanges near the dowel pins with a plastic hammer to separate the transmission housing from the torque converter housing. Removing input shaft ball bearing Using a special tool, remove the ball bearing from the input shaft. Disassembling input shaft Using a special tool or an arbor press, compress the clutch spring, and remove the snap ring.

Special tool needed Piston tool. NOTE 1 Do not remove steel balls and sealing caps from the transmission housing and torque converter housing. Inspection after disassembly 1.

Input shaft 1 Check the splines for wear or damage. Gears Check the gears and splines for wear or defects. Friction plates and mating plates 1 Check for sign of seizure, uneven contact, warpage or excessive wear.

Clutch pistons 1 Shake each piston, make sure that the balls move freely in it. When piston is overhauled and cleaned, screw the plug until its head gets into piston end face, and caulk the plug. Transmission housing Check the seal ring contact surfaces for wear or damage.

Magnet strainer Check for clogging or breakage. Idler shaft Check the splines for wear or damage. Output flange Check the splines for wear or damage. Also, check the oil seal contact surface for defects. Oil pump 1 Check top clearance A between the drive gear and pump body with feeler gauges.

Installing oil seal Using installer special tool , install the oil seal to the pump body. Special tool needed Installer. Installing pump When installing the pump, coat automatic transmission fluid to the pump body interior, internal gear and drive gear. Inspection after reassembly Turn the drive gear by hand to make sure the pump gears rotate smoothly. Installing piston assembly When installing the piston assembly to the input shaft, coat to the seal ring automatic transmission fluid.

Reassembling input shaft To install the snap ring, compress the clutch spring with a special tool or an arbor press. Installing bearing To install the ball bearing to the input shaft, use installer special tool. Testing clutch piston After reassembling the input shaft, apply air to the clutch piston through oil hole on the FORWARD gear side to make sure that the piston moves freely. Reassembling sequence To reassemble, follow the reverse of disassembly sequence.

Placing the torque converter housing Lay the torque converter housing with its engine side down. Applying grease Apply grease to the lips of the oil seals of the pump assembly and transmission housing. Applying oil on seal ring Coat to the input shaft seal ring with automatic transmission fluid. Mounting the transmission housing Set the transmission housing to a hoist with slings and eye bolts. Lower the housing onto the torque converter housing by aligning the input shaft with the transmission.

Installing pump assembly 1 Lay the transmission housing in a normal position. Apply grease to the O-ring, and install the pump assembly to the torque converter assembly. Be sure to install the O-ring in the oil inlet port.

Installing torque converter 1 Install the torque converter in position by mating the splines of stator shaft and by positioning the groove of pump drive gear correctly. Filling torque converter with AFT Fill the torque converter after the transmission has been mounted on the truck and the engine is ready to be started.

Run the engine at idle speed for a while. Stop the engine and, after 1 minute, check the oil level in the transmission with the oil level gauge in 15 minutes. Inspection after disassembly 1 Check oil ways and passages for clogging. Inspection and Adjustment Testing Hydraulic Pressure 1.

Stop the engine and, after one minute check the oil level in the transmission with the oil level gauge in 15 minutes. Warm up until the transmission oil temperature rises. Check the no-load minimum and maximum speeds of the engine. Unit: rpm 1. After checking the engine speeds, stop the engine. Raise the front wheels. To do this, jack the front axle housing, or place wood blocks under the outer mast and tilt the mast forward. Connect a pressure gauge to the tap for a pressure to be tested. The pressure taps are located as shown.

Start the engine. Move the transmission shift lever to the neutral position, and test the main pressure, torque converter inlet pressure and lube oil pressure. The inching pedal is interlocked with the brake pedal so that, when this pedal is depressed, hydraulic pressure acting on the transmission is reduced to zero before the brake is applied to bring the transmission into neutral condition. If this linkage is out of adjustment, the transmission clutch will not disengage or grab, resulting in poor braking, abnormal temperature rise or clutch disc seizure.

To adjust the clutch pedal, proceed as follows: 1. Unit: mm in. Pushrod length E. Do not adjust the clearance by setting the pushrod length. Adjusting the inching pedal Start by: Warm up the transmission oil, raise the front wheels, and block the rear wheels. Adjusting 1 Connect a pressure gauge to the clutch pressure tap. Set the clearance B between the inching pedal and brake pedal connecting parts to 9 to 9.

Depress the inching pedal until the brake starts to be applied the pedal encounters resistance. Under this condition, make an adjustment by means of the push rod so that the clutch valve plunger stroke D is Make an adjustment by means of the inching cable. If the plunger stroke is out of specification, readjust the brake and brake pedal, and repeat the adjustment. Clearance between inching 9 to 9.

Testing Clutch Valve 1. Connect a pressure gauge to the clutch pressure tap. Depress the inching pedal. Gradually pull out the clutch valve plunger from its fully pushed position, and plot the hydraulic pressure curve relative to the clutch valve plunger stroke.

Make sure that the plotted pressure curve is identical with the curve shown. There must be one operator. Keep all other personnel away from the lift truck. Check the operation of the brakes before the tests are made. Check to make sure that the transmission oil level is correct. See the topic, 1. Testing hydraulic pressure. Block the front and rear wheels, and apply the parking brake.

Check the no-load maximum speed of the engine. Run the engine at idle speed. Gradually depress the accelerator pedal all the way by the right foot. Under this condition, read the stall speed with an electric or stroboscopic tachometer. Also, do not allow the engine to keep on running at the highest speed attained or the torque converter may suffer damage. Stall-speed running of the engine is limited to 30 seconds or less. Similarly read the stall speed for reverse drive. NOTE 1. LPG models will show stall speed about rpm lower than the specified speed.

When the engine or the torque converter is changed, the stall speed will vary as it is determined by the engine and torque converter combination. Stand ready to start with the engine idling and the transmission shift lever in the neutral position. At the signal, shift into forward and, at the same time, depress the accelerator pedal all the way.

Measure the amount of time that the truck elapses to travel 10 meters 33 feet by using a watch. Measure for reverse, too. Time required for 10 m 33 ft travel no load. Troubleshooting Following is a planned method of procedure for investigation and correction of the defects of the powershift transmission. The chart includes some of the most common complaints that may be encountered during the service life of the powershift transmission. Step 1: Check oil level in transmission. Too high an oil level results in abnormal oil temperature rise; 2 Too low an oil level causes air to be sucked in, resulting in reduced main pressure.

See oil level. Maladjusted inching pedal reduces clutch pressure, resulting in slippage in clutches. See page When mast lifting speed is normal, engine and mast hydraulic are in sound condition.

NOTE If oil is changed, run engine for a few minutes, allowing oil to flow into torque converter and cooler and recheck oil level. OK In case where stall speed is out of the specification after engine and oil pump have been turned up. Overhaul and check or replace defective parts.

Replace assembly. Replace as an assembly. Retighten or replace. Replace oil. Readjust, see page Readjust to kPa 9. Flexible plate broken Not enough oil Oil pump drive defective Turbine shaft broken Main pressure too low. Readjust, see page Readjust inching pedal linkage or replace clutches, see page Flexible plate broken Bearings damaged Gears damaged Rubbing blades of running member Bolts loose Splines worn Oil pump noisy.

Oil filter clogged on outlet side Main regulator valve spool defective Restriction in oil pipe Oil too viscous in cold weather Instruments out of order Improper oil used.

Oil filter clogged Oil pump out of order Excessive oil leaks Main regulator valve spring broken or fatigued e Main regulator valve spool defective f Air being sucked in.

Oil level too high or too low Oil filter clogged Rubbing blades of running members Stator freewheel defective Air being sucked in. Check lips and sliding surfaces for wear. Replace seals. Retighten or replace packing. Repair or replace pipe and gasket. Retighten and replace gasket. Replace packing and retighten.

Lower oil level. Keep correct oil level. Clean or replace. Retighten or replace gasket. Check and readjust, see page Repair or replace valve assembly. Magnet screen clogged Gear pump worn Coil spring defective in main regulator valve Incorrect movement of main regulator valve spool Air being sucked in.

Oil level too low Control linkage out of order Clutch valve defective Seal ring broken in servo case Clutch seal rings broken. Remedies Clean or replace. Tune up engine. Replace torque converter assembly. Face runout 1 in free state Clearance between engine flywheel and flexible plate mounting surface on torque converter 2 to be measured before bolts are torqued. Width of transmission housing seal ring groove 6 Inside diameter in transmission housing for seal ring 7 Thickness of input shaft thrust washer 8.

Differential gear Differential case Differential carrier Reduction bevel gear Reduction bevel pinion. The reduction differential is mounted on the axle housing. The input flange carries a drive gear which is in mesh with the driven gear mounted on the reduction bevel pinion. The frame support is bolted to the front axle housing, together with the backing plate of wheel brake. The hub carries a single wheel but, with optional rim, double tires can be mounted.

Removal sequence [Single wheel] 1 Wheel nuts 2 Front wheel [Double wheels] 1 Extension valve 2 Outer wheel nuts 3 Front wheel outer 4 Inner wheel nuts 5 Front wheel inner. Block the rear wheels. Pull the parking brake lever, and loosen the wheel nuts 1 to 2 turns.

Raise the front end of the truck by jacking or hoisting. And lift the front end with a hoist. Put wood blocks under the mast, and tilt the mast forward to raise the front end.

In case of the double wheels, remove the outer wheel nuts and outer wheel. Then, remove the inner wheel nuts and the inner wheel. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque so that the wheels will not wobble during operation. Sequence 1 Front wheel 2 Nuts 3 Forks, Lift bracket 4 Return hose for lift cylinder 5 High-pressure hose for lift cylinder 6 Tilt cylinder socket pin 7 Mast support bearing cap.

Removing bolt 12 Bolt 12, right and left, are coupling the transmission with the differential. Before removing these bolts, place a block under the transmission. Removing parking brake cable To remove the parking brake cable, remove the parking brake lever from the dashboard, and disconnect the cable from the lever.

NOTE To dismount the differential only, remove the front axle as explained above. Installation To install, follow the reverse of removal sequence, and do the following steps: 1. After installing the parking brake cable, make sure that the brake lever operating effort is within the specifications. Before installing the mast, bleed the brake fluid circuits.

After installing the mast, make sure that the tilt angles, forward and backward, are correct and that the lift chains, right and left, are equal in tension.

Fill the front axle housing with oil up to the plug hole. Remove the mast. Jack up the truck. Support the front end of the truck at both sides with blocks or stands to keep the truck in horizontal position. Remove the front wheels. NOTE It is not necessary to remove the axle housing nor to drain the oil for removing the axle shaft only. NOTE It is not necessary to remove the oil seal from the hub nor to disassemble the oil deflector unless the seal is defective.

Removing bearings The inner race of the tapered roller bearing remains in the axle housing when the hub is drawn out. Remove this race together with the seal retainer with a bearing puller. Axle shafts 1 Looseness of mating splines Mount the differential bevel gear on the splined end of the shaft, and set a dial indicator as shown.

Rotate the bevel gear against the contact point of the indicator and read the free movement looseness of mating splines. Rotate the shaft against the contact point of the indicator and read the runout of the shaft. Rotate the shaft against the contact point and read the face runout of the flange. Axle housing 1 Check the surfaces of axle housing in contact with the mast bearing for damage.

Others 1 Check the outer surface of the oil seal retainer for wear or damage. Reassembly To reassemble, follow the reverse of disassembly sequence, and do the following steps: 1. Front wheel hub 1 Fill the front wheel hub, especially the roller holder and oil seal lip groove, with grease. Special tool needed 1. Tighten the outer nut to the specified torque; and check the preload.

Where the bearings removed in disassembly are reused, try to produce a preload in the lower side of the specified range. Rotate the drum assembly more than 3 turns, and check the preload.

If the preload meets the specification, put lock ring and tighten the bolts. NOTE To check the preload, hook a spring balancer to the hub bolt, and measure the tangential force to rotate the wheel. Sequence [3-ton models] 1 Mount bracket assembly right and left 2 Lock washer, Lock pawl, Bolt, Plate 3 Adjusting screw 4 Bearing cap, Lock washer, Bolt 5 Differential case right , Tapered roller bearing 6 Differential gear, Thrust washer 7 Differential pinion, Thrust washer not used in 1-ton models 8 Differential spider 9 Differential gear, Thrust washer 10 Differential case left , Tapered roller bearing 11 Reduction bevel gear NOTE For the disassembly sequence for 1, 2-ton models, see the next page.

The disassembly sequence for the one-piece case differs from that for the two-piece case. Suggestions NOTE Before disassembling the differential except for replacement of the reduction gear set, measure the gear backlash to aid in obtaining correct backlash at the time of reassembly. Backlash between reduction gear and pinion. Removing bearing Use a bearing puller to remove the inner bearing 5.

Removing shims After removing plate 18 and shims 13, make a record of the total thickness of the shims, and tie the shims to the plate to prevent missing. Removing carrier cover To remove carrier cover 15, attach a sling to the bracket mounting holes, and lift off the cover with a hoist while tapping it with a plastic hammer at two places close to the dowel pins.

Checking tapered roller bearing Do not remove the taper roller bearing 14 inner from reduction pinion 14 unless it is defective. Checking oil seal Do not remove oil seal 22 from carrier cover 15 unless it is defective. Inspection after repair 1. Reduction gear and pinion Check the gear and pinion for wear, pitting, flaking and chipping. Minor flaws on the tooth surfaces can be repaired by grinding with an oil stone or a sand paper. Check the teeth for contact.

Differential 1 Check the differential case 10 for damage. Check, in particular, the seat formed of each case for carrying tapered roller bearing inner race to see whether the seat surface is fretted or not. Drive gear and driven gear Check the gears for wear, pitting, flaking and chipping. If the gears are defective, replace them as a set. NOTE The combination of drive and driven gears is different from one model of the truck to another.

When replacing the gears, check the marking to ensure the proper combination of the gears as before. Sequence 1 Differential case left 2 Reduction bevel gear 3 Bolt 4 Differential gear, Thrust washer 5 Differential spider, Differential pinion, Thrust washer 6 Differential gear, Thrust washer 7 Differential case right -Bolts, Spacer 8 Tapered roller bearing 9 Differential carrier 10 Bearing cap 11 Adjusting screw 12 Carrier cover 13 Oil seal.

Reassembling differential pinions The thrust washers of the differential gears are used for adjusting the backlash between the differential gears and pinions.

Measure the backlash and, if it is in excess of the service limit, replace the thrust washers. Tightening torque for differential case bolts. Reassembling differential cases After positioning the case assembly on the carrier, install the bearing caps tentatively by making the cap bolts snug-tight. The caps are to be secured tight after the bearing preload has been adjusted. Installing bearing caps Be sure to discriminate between the left and right caps and to put each cap in place correctly.

Adjusting bearing preload Tie a wire on the reduction gear tooth. Hook a spring balancer to the wire, and pull the balancer in the tangential direction to check the preload for the bearing the force when the gear starts rotating. Adjust the preload by means of the adjusting screws, right and left. NOTE Before measuring the preload, give light taps of a copper hammer to the back of the reduction gear while rotating the gear by hand for running-in. Removing differential cases The preload can be checked by doing the steps 1 thru 6 above.

Mark across the adjusting screws and bearing caps, and remove the differential cases from the carrier. Shimming reduction pinion Put shims on the reduction pinion in order to adjust the tooth contact of the reduction bevel gear and bevel pinion.

The standard value of total shim thickness is 1. The shims are available in four sizes, 0. Installing oil seal Using an installer special tool , put oil seal 13 in carrier cover Applying grease to oil seal Apply grease to the oil seal installed to carrier cover Recommended grease: LG2 Applying sealant When putting differential carrier 9 and carrier cover 12 together, apply sealant to the flange.

Adjusting reduction pinion preload 1 After installing tapered roller bearing 21, measure difference between the reduction pinion and tapered roller bearing to determine the required amount of shim thickness. The standard value of total shim thickness is 2. The shims are available in five sizes, 0. Adjust the preload by adding or subtracting the shims. Gear symbol. Adjusting reduction bevel gear and bevel pinion tooth contact 1 Turn the differential carrier upside down.

Align the marks on the bearing caps and adjust screws on each side. Set a dialgauge as shown. At the periphery of the reduction bevel gear, read the tangential play of the gear. Press forward on the pinion, and rotate back and forth until a contact pattern is noted on both the drive and coast sides. Tightening bearing caps Upon checking the tooth contact, tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque, and bent the lock washer.

Adjustment After the reduction gear and pinion have been replaced, adjust the tooth contact as follows: 1 Determine the required amount of shim thickness S on the basis of machining error inscribed on the end face of the pinion. It is given by this formula:. Tooth Contact Patterns and Adjustment Tooth contact. Move gear away from pinion. Move pinion toward gear by increasing shim thickness to secure correct backlash.

Move gear toward pinion. Move pinion away from gear by decreasing shim thickness to secure correct backlash. Move pinion toward gear by increasing shim thickness. Move gear away from pinion to secure correct backlash. Move pinion away from gear by decreasing shim thickness. Move gear toward pinion to secure correct backlash.

Possible causes a Teeth worn excessively or tooth contact out of adjustment in bevel drive b Bearing preloads too much or too little, or bearings worn excessively. Abnormal noise comes a Fit of differential gears in differential case out out when turning a corner of specification due to wear b Teeth broken or differential pinions or side gears, or pinions seized on spider Differential overheats.

Remedies Readjust or replace. Readjust or replace. Replace gears or washers. Clean and replace oil. Carrier bolts. Replace defective parts. Replace bearings and readjust preload. Rear Wheels Rear Axle Rear Axle Assembly Inspection after Disassembly Steering Cylinder Inspection and Repair The lift truck is steered by the rear wheels. The rear axle is connected to the frame by its center pivot shaft. Because of the center pivoting fea-. Set the parking brake, and block the front wheels.

Raise the rear end of the lift truck with a jack or hoist. Installation To install, follow the reverse of removal procedure. NOTE Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Tightening torque for wheel nuts. Apply the parking brake and block the front wheel. Raise the rear end of the truck with a jack and place wood blocks under the side frames with the left and right rear wheels slightly clearing the floor.

A hoist can be used instead of the jack to raise the rear end counterweight. Suggestion 1. Removing wheel assembly Remove the wheel assembly from the rear axle. Be careful not to cause damage to the oil seal fitted to the rim. After removing the assembly, raise the counterweight to a position to mm 16 to 20 in. Removing rear axle assembly Support the rear axle at its center with a garage jack and remove the bolts that hold the bearing supports.

Weight of rear axle 1. Installation To install, follow the reverse of removal sequence and do the following steps: 1. Adjusting bearing support clearances Adjust clearance between bearing support to be 0. Removing support bushing Do not remove the bushing in the support if not necessary.

When replace the blushing, place the mating line at the bottom align with the grease nipple. Tightening bearing support Tighten the bolts holding the bearing support to the specified torque. Tightening torque for bearing support bolts. Suggestions Removing retainer and bearing Use a puller to remove the retainer and inner bearing 1 from the knuckle. Inspection after Disassembly 1. Tie-rods and pins 1 Make sure that the pins are free of any surface flaws such as grooving or stepped wear.

Examine the tie-rod pin weld for cracking. Inspect the welds for signs of cracks. NOTE If a pin must be replaced, replace its bearing as well.

Kingpins Check the kingpins for any surface flaws such as grooving or stepped wear. Inspect the pins for cracks at the bearing shoulder. Kingpin bearings Examine the rollers and bearing races for grooving, abrasive wear, pitting, bruising, or corrosion. Replace both the cup and cone of damaged bearings. Knuckles Inspect the inside of each knuckle for wear or damage. Be sure to examine for casting cracks. Check the tie rod pin hole. Examine the wheel nut threads for damage.

Seals and O-rings Examine all seals and O-rings for damage such as cuts and tears. Replace seals which show signs of aging. Hydraulic pipes Inspect the hydraulic pipes for cracks, especially at the joints with the end fittings. Check for leaks. Cylinder rod Examine the rod for surface or plating damage.

Inspect the rod for straightness. Examine the piston for damage check the tie rod pin hole for damage or wear.

Reassembling steering cylinder Use an alternating tightening pattern to tighten the mounting bolts when attaching the cylinder assembly to the rear axle. Reassembling knuckles 1 Insert bearing cups into knuckles. Apply a coat of grease to the oil seal grooves. Insert the bearing cages in the knuckles and apply additional grease as required to meet the recommended amount. Unit: cc cu. When the tangential force is larger than the values shown in the table below, add shims.

When the tangential force is smaller than the values shown in the table below, remove shims. Repeat this procedure until the values in the table attained. Tangential force for kingpin bearings. Reassembling tie-rods Replace dust seals.

Tighten tie-rod pin bolts to the specified torque. Grease the joints using the grease gun. Tightening torque for bolts. Steering Stop Adjustment 1. When properly adjusted, the threaded portion of the bolt that protudes through the steer axle beam will measure 13mm. Reassembling rear axle hub 1 The inner race of the inner bearing must be driven onto the shaft by using a special tool, as shown: Special tool needed.

Be sure to fill up this space with grease. Grease the oil seal lip groove and roller retainers, too. Do not overfill the oil seal lip groove as this can cause leakage.

Tighten the inside nut first to secure the prescribed preload; after this tightening, tighten the outside nut lock nut to the specified torque value; and then re-check the preload. If the hub bearings taper roller bearings have long been in service, it is advisable to aim at a value of preload in the lower half of the specified range. Tangential force for hub 6. Raise the rear end of the truck and remove the blocking from the side frames. Lower the truck until the rear wheels just touch the floor.

Disassembly sequence 1 Nut, Spring washer, Stud Remove parts 2 through 7 as assembly. NOTE 1 Do not remove bushing 5 from the cylinder head 2 if not necessary.

Suggestions Mark cylinder end caps Mark the cylinder end caps for proper alignment before they are disassembled from the cylinder. Inspection and Repair 1 Cylinder tube 8 Check for wear, damage or rust inside the cylinder. A: Standard value Unit: mm in.

Replace all seals and O-rings whenever reassembling cylinder. Smear hydraulic fluid on seals and O-rings. Assemble Wiper and U-seal as shown. Use a turning radius gauge, and measure the angular swing of rear wheels.

Setting the turning angle of each rear wheel to the specification is not enough. The lift truck must be driven to make the sharpest possible turn to either side, and the radius of the track left behind by the outer wheel must be measured for confirmation.

The standard minimum turning radius is indicated below. Drive the lift truck at low speeds in such a manner as to make the sharpest possible turn to either side, and measure the radius of track left by the outer rear wheel. The minimum turning radius R is the distance from the turning center to the center of tire contact with the surface of the wheel describing the largest circle, while the truck is executing its sharpest practicable turn, plus the rear overhang the distance from the center of rear tire to the outermost end of counterweight.

Master Cylinder Wheel Brakes Wheel Cylinders Automatic Adjusting Device Manual Adjustment Brake Pedal Adjustment Brake Test Automatic Adjusting Device This device adjusts the drum-to-lining clearance automatically.

As the clearance increases due to lining wear, the lever mechanism of this device turns the adjusting screw by one notch or tooth. In the course of usage, the adjusting process repeats itself at long intervals. Brake fluid level sensor 1 Connect the level sensor at the bottom of fluid reservoir, and turn the starter switch to ON.

Cylinder body 1 Check the bore of the cylinder for rusting, erosion and scoring. Also, check the threads of screw connection of each joint for damage. Make sure that the boot is free from any defects. Piston Replace the piston if it is damaged. Check the piston clearance in the cylinder body.

Replace the cylinder body and piston if the clearance is in excess of the service limit. Return spring Replace the return spring every 1 year.

Primary cup, secondary cup and valve Check these rubber parts for swelling, tearing and deterioration due to aging. Replace them every 1 year.