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Download sewing book

Download sewing book

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The Sewing Book – downloadable patterns – Penguin Books Australia

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Take this quiz to find out which YA book you should put on your wishlist this year. Check out the most anticipated books of How finding your ikigai can give you a new perspective on stress. We caught up with author Tim Harris and illustrator Shiloh Gordon to learn about their new series, Ratbags. Search books and authors. Thank you so much. Looks like things may change, though! Ive printed the pattern for Keystone Cardigan, do I cut each sheet on the red dots or just match up the black lines.

I just dont want to do it wrong. I never realized that changing the stitch size made such a difference in the end results of a dart.

Thank You! Stay up to date with the latest content, educational resources, promotions and special news from our partners. Remember me Lost your password? Try Something New – Featured eBooks. Download Now. How to Sew Basics. Upcycling Ideas. Embroidering Hems. Sewing Project eBooks. Accessory Sewing Patterns. Baby Sewing Patterns. Simple Christmas Crafts. Sewing Clothes. Easy Sewing Patterns. Gifts for Every Season. Easy Gifts Ideas to Sew. Easy Handbags to Sew.

Home Dec Projects Vol 1. Home Dec Projects Vol 2. Home Dec Projects Vol 3. Kids Sewing Patterns Vol 1. Kids Sewing Patterns Vol 2. When both threads have an even amount of tension, a smooth, “balanced” stitch is produced. The needle and bobbin threads are locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers. Choice of Thread See your machine instructions for information on threading your machine.

Refer to the Thread and Needle chart for information on choosing the proper thread. All purpose thread serves most fabric weights. Denim would require a heavier weight thread and silks and finer fabrics require a lighter weight thread. In choosing the color, the general rule is to choose one shade darker than your fabric, unless you feel you can get a perfect match.

Threading Your Machine Machines vary as to how exactly they are threaded, but all have certain common features. The thread runs from the spool holder, through a tension device and down through the needle. The tension device controls the tension on the thread.

It consists of a groove that the thread slides through. The mechanism for setting the tension may be a dial or buttons computerized machines. With the machine on the left, below, the thread runs from the spool to a hook at the top of the tension area, down the right groove and up the left groove, over a little hook and down the left groove again, and on to the needle.

The dial is turned to set the tension. With the machine on the right below, the thread runs from the spool to a hook at the top of the tension area, down and up the left groove and down the right groove to the needle. The thread runs from the tension device, down to the needle area. There are usually small grooves in the arm that holds the needle, for the thread to pass through.

This holds the thread close to the needle arm. The thread then runs down to and through the eye of the needle. Refer to your machine manual for proper threading of your machine. Winding Your Bobbin For most machines, the thread must be taken out of the needle in order to wind the bobbin. There is normally a bobbin holder on top of the machine.

The thread runs from the spool through a sequence of hooks etc. The needle is disengaged when the bobbin is winding. This is done automatically when the bobbin is in position for winding or manually, depending on the machine. After the bobbin is wound, the machine is re-threaded, the needle is engaged and the bobbin is placed in its area under the throat plate.

Refer to your machine’s manual for instructions on winding the bobbin. Once the bobbin is in place and the machine is threaded, gently turn the wheel of the machine while holding the needle thread off to the side it should go from the needle under the presser foot and off to the side.

This will bring down the needle. The needle will pass down through the throat plate and the needle thread will catch the bobbin thread and pull it up through the throat plate when it comes back up again. Or a manual for your current machine? Visit our Machines page for a directory of companies that sell machines or offer manuals.

All Patterns, images and instructions are copyright protected. They are listed alphabetically. This is what makes the finished garment lie flat, with nice flat seams and edges.

If the fabric edge is outside the curve of the seam allowance, a straight snip is made in the seam allowance. This is called clipping. The fabric in the seam allowance will separate into segments allowing the seam allowance to lie flat. Cut from the outside just to, but not into, the seam allowance. If the fabric edge curve is inside the curve of the seam, a notch is cut into the seam allowance. A notch is a wedge shaped cut. This removes bulk in the seam allowance and allows the seam allowance to lie flat.

Facing Edges of a garment must be finished in some way unless you like the look of raw edges. There are several ways to finish an edge. Seam binding can be sewn to the edge. A straight edge can be hemmed. What if you do not want anything showing on the ouside? If the edge is curved such as around an arm hole of a sleeveless dress or along the neckline , hemming would not work. To finish such an edge, a facing is used. The facing is cut to the same shape as the edge, and is sewn to the edge, right sides together, and then turned to the inside of the garment after trimming seam allowances.

Pressing with an iron helps give it a crisp edge. This gives a firmness to the edge of the garment. Refer to Interfacing later in this chapter. The photos below show the front of a dress. The facing is on the inside of the dress front. The dress has a nice “finished” look inside and out.

They are wonderful if you have a serger, but can be very difficult on a regular machine. For example, if you have stretched ribbing to fit the edge of the garment body or sleeve, be sure you keep it the same as it passes through. In other words, don’t stretch it further. This way, you are keeping the ribbing in place, but not adding any more tension as you sew. Think of it this way. If you have stretched the ribbing so that your left hand is holding a point 4″ in front of your right hand, your hands should remain exactly 4″ apart all the way through as you guide your piece through.

The ribbing is stretched, but the garment fabric is not. Don’t pull or push the piece through. Other fabrics, such as tricot and other similar synthetic knits, require support while being stitched. Apply gentle tension by holding the two layers of fabric at the front and back of the pressor foot as you sew. Do not pull on the fabric. For elasticized fabric stretch lycra or stretch lace and knits with an unusual amount of elasticity , you do need to gently stretch the fabric as it passes through, but by an even amount all the way through.

Hold the two layers of fabric firmly in front and back of the pressor foot and gently stretch the fabric as the stitches are being placed use a long stitch. You may find that you need to tighten the tension slightly if the stitches seem to be too loose.

Refer to Chapter Five for information on feed dogs and differential feed. Swimsuit leg openings, waistbands of pyjamas, and wrists of full sleeves are a few examples. As the body moves, the garment fabric stretches and gives, yet stays in place. For instructions on properly attaching elastic, go to our free lesson: Attaching Elastic. Hemming I will cover three ways to hem your item. No matter which method you choose, always take the time to take careful measurements a hem guage is very useful and iron under your hems before sewing.

Use of hem tape makes for a nice finish, and is helpful when hand sewing a hem. The hem tape is sewn along the edge of the hem before ironing under the hem. Use a hem guage to ensure your hem is accurate and straight.

Hand Sewn Hem Hand sewing works very well, if you are good at hand sewing. If not, you will want to learn how to machine hem. There are times, however, when hand sewing will work best, such as when you want a truly invisible hem stitch.

Thread your hand sewing needle and tie a knot in one end. Pull the needle and thread through the fold of the hem, close to the folded edge, from the underside to the top. This way, the knot will be hidden under the hem. Pull your needle through only a couple of threads from your garment, just above the place your needle originally came up.

If you take too many threads, your stitch will show on the outside. If you take only one or two, your hem could break away later. Refer to figure 1, below. Practice to get a good, strong stitch and the look you want on the outside. Run the needle under the fold of the hem and come up through the fold again. Repeat this stitch around the hem. Your stitch should not show much on the inside, and should be almost invisible on the outside.

Use a thread that matches your garment. Be sure your needle is appropriate for the type of fabric you are using.

Then iron under again to desired hem width and stitch the hem in place. Topstitching is actually done on the outside of the garment. I prefer to stitch hems from the wrong side, so I know I am stitching close to the edge of the hem.

The hem stitch line will show on the outside of the garment. Sewn on wrong side right side wrong side Machine Invisible Hem Stitch This one takes some practice, as stated above, but is very easy once you get the hang of it.

Fold under to the desired hem width. Set your machine to “hem stitch” refer to your machine’s manual. Then, bend back the edge of the hem, away from the garment. Stitch along this edge, and with every fourth stitch or so your needle will zig-zag over to catch the edge of the garment side.

If it zig-zags too far into the garment, it will show more. If it just barely catches it, it may break away. It usually lines a facing see “Facing” earlier in this chapter. It gives body to the piece, and can stiffen the piece if a heavy weight is used. There are various weights and types of interfacing available. The types are basically fusible iron-on or sew-on. Which one you choose just depends on your own preference. Fusible interfacing is very popular because it is quick and easy to use.

We highly recommend it. Follow the directions that come with the interfacing. Proper interfacing weight depends on the weight of your fabric, or how stiff a look you are after. Use a light weight interfacing for lighter weight fabric, and a heavier weight for heavier weight fabric, such as denim.

Ribbing Properly attached ribbing is finished inside and out no seam showing inside the cuff. Ribbing allows a snug fit around a wrist, ankle, neckline or waist, while still allowing flexible movement of the body. For instructions on properly attaching ribbing, go to our free lesson: Attaching Ribbing. Seam Finishing The first three methods finish the raw edges of the seam allowance after the seam has been stitched.

Pin seams in place before sewing; trim and press open after stitching. The final two methods encase the entire seam. Binding a seam is a very nice way to finish bulkier seams, such as when working with double-sided prequilted fabric. The French seam method is a fabulous way to finish delicate fabrics that have a tendency to fray sheer curtains for example.

Choose one of the following finishing methods. This gives a finished look and helps prevent fraying. NOTE: It is a good idea to add a line of stitching inside the pinked edge to add more protection against fraying. Zig-Zag Stitch A machine sewn zig-zag stitch on fabric edging to help prevent fraying. Zig-zag should be sewn close to the edge, allowing the outer zig-zag to fall over the edge of the fabric. Clean Finished Seam A nicely finished, sewn edge. This prevents against fraying and gives the most finished appearance.

Binding Seams Binding is stiched onto the seam allowance in the same way that it is stitched around a quilt or placemat. The raw edges are totally covered.

Use this method for heavy fabrics, such as very heavy denims or other bulky fabrics. It can also be used for delicate or lightweight fabrics, however. For more information on using this method, go to Free Totebag Pattern.

French Seams By totally encasing the seam that holds the raw edges within a second seam, the raw edges are protected. The second seam provides a backup to the first seam. The inside of the garment or other item is nicely finished; there are no raw edges showing.

Fold back fabric layers so that they are now right sides together, with seam allowances between the two layers. Stitch a new seam so that the first seam edges are totally inside the new seam allowance.

Example: Baste a seam that will later hold a zipper. For a center back dress zipper, the back of the dress is made in two halvs. A center back seam is sewn from the bottom of the dress up to the point where the zipper will be installed. From that point up to the top, the seam is basted. This holds the seam edges in place until the zipper in installed. The basting is removed once the final stitching is completed.

Embroidery Hand Embroidery Stitches Hand embroidery adds a beautiful finish to items. Embroider a quilt; add decorative embroidery to tote bags, apparel, pillowcases, placemats and just about any other item you sew. See our Free Embroidery Glossary for a fully illustrated, alphabetized list of embroidery stitches.

A darning foot is used, the feed dogs are lowered, and your hands guide the fabric under the needle. It is easy to learn. A stabilizer must be used to add body to the fabric. Learn how to free motion embroider with our free Sedona Landscape project.

Free Motion Embroidery Gathering Gathering can be done by hand or by machine. Most people find it easier to use the machine. The gathering stitch, like the basting stitch, is an extra long, straight stitch. Gathering is done to ease in fabric along curves, such as when sewing in sleeves, and for adding fullness, such as with curtains. The gathering can be very subtle just enough to ease in the sleeve and not show along the seam, or can be much fuller, such as for a puffy sleeve or a skirt.

The permanent stitch is placed right on top of the inside gathering stitch away from the fabric edge. An important note in gathering: Proper gathering for full skirts or puffy sleeves calls for two lines of gathering stitches gathering for use in gently easing in a sleeve uses only one gathering line. Don’t omit the second stitch line! The second stitch line serves two important functions. They are easier to control in spacing, and have a much tighter, rounded appearance, instead of a flat, folded look.

Hem Stitch See Quick Index at top of page for link to hem stitch page. Stay Stitching Stay stitching is used to prevent stretching and fraying in fabric. Stretching can occur when handling and sewing curved areas. Fraying can occur where curves are clipped. Start at the edge and stitch to the center.

Repeat on opposite side. To do this, sew in reverse at each end. This will hold your seam, so it does not come apart at the ends. Topstitching Topstitching refers to stitching done on the top side of the garment. In other words, it shows. It serves two main purposes.

It can be a straight stitch, zig-zag or any other stitch you choose. If a straight stitch is used, it is usually done with a slightly longer stitch length. Hold Seams Flat It is used to hold seams down flat, such as topstitching around the sleeve or waistband seam.

Decorative Use topstitching to add a decorative touch to a garment. Make it more noticeable by using contrast thread color. Your machine may have several decorative stitches to choose from. The photo below shows several decorative stitches available on a Pfaff sewing machine. Straight stitch topstitching is usually done close to the edge. Easy placemat pattern. Sewing Tools Tools For Sewing Common tools for sewing include: cutting mat, rotary blade, large sewing ruler, pins, tape measure, sewing scissors, fabric markers, sewing neeedles, seam ripper, thread and sewing machine.

Other tools might include embroidery hoops, quilting needles, a quilter’s square, embroidery scissors, magnifying lights plus many more items that can make sewing much easier. Keep your tools and sewing items in a safe place, where they will not be damaged such as a tupperware box with lid.

This chapter will cover side seam pockets pocket sewn into the side seam of a skirt or dress and front pockets such as on a shirt. Basically, a pocket must have a front and a back inside. If a pocket is sewn directly onto a shirt front, the shirt front is the inside or back of the pocket. If the pocket is sewn into the the side seam of a skirt, the front of the skirt serves as the front of the pocket and a back is created by sewing in a pocket. The upper edge of a pocket is often made stronger by adding a facing and interfacing see Chapter Six.

This is important if the pocket is on a shirt front or back of pants, for example. A pocket can also be lined, which gives it a nice finish.

Side Seam Pocket 1. Add extensions If you wish to add a sideseam pocket, draw an extension on the sides of the skirt these will be facings for the pockets.

Draw Pockets Draw pockets in the shape you want. They need to be large enough for the hand to fit into nicely and they must come to about 2″ above and below the extensions.

Reinforce and clip facings Stitch on each side of the corners of the facings I marked with circles. Clip from the edge almost to the circle – do NOT cut your stitching. The clipping is shown in red. Press facing under. Sew a box along the edge of the facing to reinforce it refer to photo in step 4 below. The pocket shows as pink in the diagram to the right. Stitch Skirt front to Skirt back. Stitch the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams, being careful not to sew the pocket edge into the seam.

The line that will be stitched is shown as a dashed red line skirt back not shown. Press Your pocket now resides within the side seam. The stitching of the pocket shows on the skirt front. Shirt Type Pocket 1. Press edges under Iron under the three lower edges.

 
 

 

FREE SEWING BOOK: Expert Guide to Dressmaking

 
This is the only sewing reference you will ever need, with step-by-step photographs to show you how to sew absolutely everything. This book contains the best hands-on insider sewing tips from the popular sewing website replace.me, a community. Download. FREE Sewing Book Sewing Lessons For Beginners Last update May 30, TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter One: Introduction To Sewing Chapter Two: Choosing.

 
 

Download sewing book. FREE SEWING BOOK: Expert Guide to Dressmaking

 
 
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